Milan, located in northern Italy, is one of the less-visited cities in Italy. It lacks the magnificent ruins of Rome, dreamlike quality of watery Venice, and innumerable Renaissance charms of Florence that attract the big tourist crowds. But the charm of Milan comes from the varied qualities of the city: hidden architectural gems, chic shopping districts, and an excellent soccer team. And since tourists are rarer, so are the too-bright gelaterie and restaurants selling mediocre gelato and pasta for exorbitant prices. If you go just a few steps beyond the Duomo, you

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