What was a tiny Malay village less than two centuries ago is now the capital of Malaysia and one of the liveliest cities in Southeast Asia. Everything you’ve ever imagined about an Asian city can be found here: fat temples that have stood sturdy for centuries, dramatic skylines of steel towers, congested streets, street markets selling cheap clothing and good food, and more.

While Malay is the lingua franca in Kuala Lumpur, you’ll hear many others. Most schoolchildren learn English and it is widely spoken. Both Mandarin and Cantonese Chinese are spoken by the Chinese community and the Indian community speaks primarily Tamil.

The Malay pantry is filled with spices. From the usual suspects like garlic and chili peppers to lesser-known spices like torch ginger and laksa leaf, the Malay people apply spices liberally but with careful attention. Flavors favored in Malaysia are many and heavily influenced by neighboring culinary traditions like Thai, Indian, and Indonesian.

Some of the best Malay food is served on the streets. Vendors set up shop on street corners to sell satay (barbecue meat on a stick), deep-fried bananas, fried sweet potato rolled in sugar, and everything from cooked-to-order noodles to fresh star fruit juice.

Kuala Lumpur is sprinkled with restaurants selling Malay cuisine as well as food from all over the world. Ethnic restaurants, especially Chinese and Indian, are many. But if you want something typically Malay, then look for traditional Malay dishes to sample like beef rending, a dish of beef simmered with coconut and many spices. As Kuala Lumpur is located on a peninsula, seafood plays a major role in Malay cuisine so dishes like barbecue stingray and fish curry are typically Malay.

To find the party in Kuala Lumpur, head directly to the Golden Triangle. The Petronas Twin Towers (featured in the movie Entrapment starring Sean Connery) glitter high in the skyline of the Golden Triangle. This area of Kuala Lumpur is known for glitter, glitz, and all night parties. During the day you’ll find shopping, an aquarium, a spa, and other wonderful things, but night is when the Golden Triangle comes alive. Wine bars, pubs, nightclubs, karaoke bars, and hotel bars are sprinkled throughout the Gold Triangle. The hottest places change constantly so ask for recommendations or just wander around go wherever you are drawn. When the night starts winding down, do the local thing and hit up a mamak shop for a hot drink and a snack.

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